The villages are mean,
but the inhabitants do not look wretched and the men are good
sailors. There is something in this Greek race yet; they will
become a powerful Levantine nation in the course of time. - What a
lovely moonlight evening that was! the barren island cutting the
clear sky with fantastic outline, marble cliffs on either hand
fairly gleaming over the calm sea. Next day, the wind still
continuing, I proposed a boating excursion and decoyed A-, L-, and
S- into accompanying me. We took the little gig, and sailed away
merrily enough round a point to a beautiful white bay, flanked with
two glistening little churches, fronted by beautiful distant
islands; when suddenly, to my horror, I discovered the ELBA
steaming full speed out from the island. Of course we steered
after her; but the wind that instant ceased, and we were left in a
dead calm. There was nothing for it but to unship the mast, get
out the oars and pull. The ship was nearly certain to stop at the
buoy; and I wanted to learn how to take an oar, so here was a
chance with a vengeance! L- steered, and we three pulled - a
broiling pull it was about half way across to Palikandro - still we
did come in, pulling an uncommon good stroke, and I had learned to
hang on my oar.
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