A headless, wingless lion of St. Mark still
stands upon a gate, and has left the mark of his strong clutch. Of
ancient times when Crete was Crete, not a trace remains; save
perhaps in the full, well-cut nostril and firm tread of that
mountaineer, and I suspect that even his sires were Albanians, mere
outer barbarians.
'May 17.
I spent the day at the little station where the cable was landed,
which has apparently been first a Venetian monastery and then a
Turkish mosque. At any rate the big dome is very cool, and the
little ones hold [our electric] batteries capitally. A handsome
young Bashibazouk guards it, and a still handsomer mountaineer is
the servant; so I draw them and the monastery and the hill, till
I'm black in the face with heat and come on board to hear the Canea
cable is still bad.
'May 23.
'We arrived in the morning at the east end of Candia, and had a
glorious scramble over the mountains which seem built of adamant.
Time has worn away the softer portions of the rock, only leaving
sharp jagged edges of steel. Sea eagles soaring above our heads;
old tanks, ruins, and desolation at our feet.
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