"
Foaming and frothing from mountainous height,
Roaring like thunder the Rhyadr falls;
Though its silvery splendour the eye may delight,
Its fury the heart of the bravest appals.
CHAPTER LXXI
Wild Moors - The Guide - Scientific Discourse - The Land of Arthur
- The Umbrella - Arrival at Bala.
WHEN I had rested myself and finished the buttermilk, I got up, and
making the good woman a small compensation for her civility,
inquired if I could get to Bala without returning to Llan Rhyadr.
"Oh yes," said she, "if you cross the hills for about five miles
you will find yourself upon a road which will take you straight to
Bala."
"Is there anyone here," said I, "who will guide me over the hills,
provided I pay him for his trouble?"
"Oh yes," said she, "I know one who will be happy to guide you
whether you pay him or not."
She went out and presently returned with a man about thirty-five,
stout and well-looking, and dressed in a waggoner's frock.
"There," said she, "this is the man to show you over the hills; few
know the paths better."
I thanked her, and telling the man I was ready, bade him lead the
way. We set out, the two dogs of which I have spoken attending us,
and seemingly very glad to go. We ascended the side of the hog-
backed hill to the north of the Rhyadr.
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